We started planning this trip in 2019, and it was initially supposed to take off in April of 2020. However. As one friend put it: "Damn COVID." Traveling during the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic certainly had a major impact on the trip, but much of it was ironically positive. We got first class upgrades on all our flights, the touristy locations were not packed, and we were able to build more personal connections with our tour guides and hotel staff. Between a followed mask mandate, every business having handwashing stations and temperature checks at their entrance, and wonderful weather that permitted expansive outdoor seating, we oftentimes felt more safe in Costa Rica than at home. Of course, the primary reason for our positive experiences was the extensive planning by Catalina and James at C.R. Referrals. They did such an amazing job with the trip (and wedding!) that we will use them for Costa Rica Round 2 when that happens. So with that, let us touch on the highlights of our pandemic-defying honeymoon. While we won't be able to do it justice, if we can capture just a hint of the majesty of Costa Rica, that would be enough.
Not to let our absent smiles define our trip photos, we decided to design and have custom masks printed. The extra year gave us the time to organize a custom logo which we plastered everywhere we could: our masks, our backpacks, our vow books, and our website.
Helping animals of all types that are found injured or illegally caged, the Toucan Rescue Ranch was our first stop after entering the country. They gave us a private tour of their facilities and explained their techniques for rehabilitating and reintroducing their rescues to new homes in the wilderness of Costa Rica. Latte, a sloth who "dropped out" of her rehabilitation classes, put on an amazingly cute display of the speed and dexterity a sloth possesses in pursuit of a particularly sweet treat, the hibiscus flower.
More than just a wedding venue, La Paz Waterfalls and Gardens has multiple hiking trails and wildlife enclosures. While we weren't excited about the zoo-like exhibits, the actual nature at the park was breathtaking. Each waterfall is awe-inspiring in a distinctive way and the views are indescribable. The hotel, Peace Lodge, lets you experience all that majesty from a balcony hot tube. And as exciting as that is, the hotel is best known for it's insane bathrooms which have real flora, another hot tub, a large shower, a second waterfall shower, and for good measure another waterfall thrown in. When we were feeling a little too pampered, we decided to go adventuring off the hiking trail as far as the jungle would let us. It got dense real fast.
A surprising highlight was the transfer between Poas and Arenal. Driver/Owner/Operator/Renaissance Man Pablo of Arenal Star's Transfer put together a trip where we got to see Koatis, giant iguanas, and sloths (three toed this time!). His sharp eye caught a monkey in a tree off the highway and we pulled off for pictures and so that he could put his impressive monkey call on display. We were happy to see him a couple days later for another transfer with fewer surprises but equally enjoyable and comfortable.
Once in a lifetime trip calls for once in a lifetime luxury, and there are few places that fit the bill better than Nayara Springs. Private bungalows that feature hot spring pools, outdoor showers, and in-room breakfast. A superb choice for secluded unwinding. While we didn't see any monkeys or sloths on their hiking trails, our bungalow did get a visit from some warring local land fowl and a mapache!
Our first-adventure-luck continued when we visited Arenal. It was a rare day where the peak of the volcano was unobstructed by cloudcover and we could make out the steam piping from the top. We first participated in a zipline tour of the volcano before setting off on a guided hike to learn more about the wildlife and lake. It was on that day we received texts from home of record snowfall. We were not disappointed by our situation.
The hotel that wins the award for most nights on this trip is Isla Chiquita Glamping. Such a unique and fun experience with too much excitement to contain to a couple sentances. Click here for a story that contains monkeys, vistas, SUP, salsa and escorpions!
For an evening, Ruthanne embodied Moana in the scene where Grandma's manta spirit swims under her boat. While sadly no pictures or video would capture the bio-luminescent algae, it was one of those experiences that was best when we put down the cameras and just enjoyed the nature first hand. Splashing about in the water would light the little organisms up, and when we got enough speed the nose of the kayak cutting through the water would ignite them and disperse them around us in movie-like fashion.
Pushing off the beach inside Curu Nature Park, we went on three dives around Tortuga Island in the Gulf of Nicoya. While the area was flooded with tourists, our dingy was limited to a few local Costariquenses which not only made us feel safer, but also provided a unique scuba experience since the industry is usually run by internationally nomadic dive masters. The dives exposed us to lots of sharks, rays, eels, and octopi. Eagle eyed Ruthanne even found a monster seahorse!
Our final stop was in Flamingo Beach at Bahia del Sol. With tongue-in-cheek, we describe it as the most "hotel feeling hotel" we stayed at. With some direction from staff and recognizable locals, we spent our days walking up and down the beach to explore local towns for tchotchkes, and evenings enjoying Coco Locos watching the sun set into the ocean. It took the whole trip, but we even found an elusive bottle of guava flavored rum recommended to us by the first Costa Rican we met off the plane.
In direct opposition to diving at Tortuga Islands, diving in the Pacific at Catalinas Islands could only be described as tough. While we were disappointed with extremely poor visibility (which multiple sources told us was not the case just a few days before), the dives were amazing and unique in their own ways. Between boarding the ocean going vessel by wading in from shore, the aforementioned visibility, Graydon having a panic attack underwater, and relentless in-your-face current, these dives were hard. Which made finding the singular devil ray and giant moray eel all the more rewarding.
The trip to Costa Rica has been on our bucket list for a long time, and we're not ready to cross it off yet. The experiences put together by the staff at C.R. Referrals, Peace Lodge, Isla Chiquita, Arenal Star Transfers, and everyone else involved really made us want to return to relive and experience more of this American paradise. Maybe next time we'll get out to the Caribbean side of the country, or raft to Manuel Antonio, or do the ten day liveaboard to Cocos Island? But until we do return for another adventure, we wish our friends abroad good health and good luck. Gracias por todo y ¡Pura Vida!